From the middle of the Indian Ocean

Words: Jamie Joseph

19 September 2011

Crossing the channel Padang to Mentawai
We just left Padang. I’m stretched out port side of WavePark’s boat KM Koraibi, carries up to 20. Our 9 new guests for the trip are inside, a friendly group from California split between two generations in their forties and twenties, all surfers. Plus the regulars Robert, Steve and Bertie. I just spent seven weeks in Bali and now I have seven weeks ahead of me at WavePark, Mentawai, a stark contrast in so many ways. I loved the buzz of Bali, but I’m looking forward to escaping to a private island where there are no crazy drivers, in fact no motor vehicles of any kind, no dodgy cops and there is no one trying to sell you something. As for the surf, well it’s definitely a gear shift to full throttle. It’s on when it’s on…and it’s always on.

Welcome to WavePark
It was dark by the time we got here, everyone was real tired, so the order of the evening was dinner and bed. But first we had the talk by founder and general manager, Christie. He takes safety seriously and doesn’t downplay anything. Watch out for the killers… Coconuts, they kill. And they are everywhere. The paths have been trimmed and marked with an X, so just watch out if you go off the beaten track. And earthquakes and tsunamis, as in the earthquake is the warning for a tsunami. If we feel an earthquake the evacuation plan is to climb one of the trees with the ladders running up it. Christie insisted we scope out our tree either that evening or first thing in the morning. The resort has been running for 15 years and has only ever been evacuated twice. So not bad odds. But still, you can never be too prepared.

Indonesian words of the day:
Capek - tired
Berhagia - happy

20 September 2011

First sunrise
Because we had arrived after dark last night everything was just a teaser. I could hear the ocean and see the shadows of lined palm trees, but I knew nothing would compare to daylight. I got up early to check out this postcard friends of WavePark kept telling me I would be living in and followed the short path from staff quarters down to the beach. As my feet connected with the softest white sandy beach and I scanned my eyes from left to right the island felt like it was smiling at me. That’s the shape of the cove that meets the main pathway to the beach house and bungalows, a smile. Palm trees lined with soft white sand hugging turquoise blue water. The kind of shells scattered across the ground like you would buy in a shop except there is nothing static here and no shops, no cars and no noisy scooters. Just living breathing creatures transporting these shells across their playground. I dive into the gentle waters that wash over my body and even the sea salt is silky. You can taste it, but there is no sting. Further out is Hideaways surf break. And beyond that are another 20 breaks creating a Disneyland for surfers. It’s time to get amongst it. Indonesian words of the day: Sunrise - matahari terbit Sunset - matahari terbenum

No need to panic
This morning I headed out to Hideaways surf spot just out front on our doorstep. We’re still waiting for the swell tomorrow and so it was small conditions. But still, I am a beginner surfer and I’ve never surfed reef anymore. I sat with Alice on the boat and watched the other surfers for a little while before apprehensively putting my booties on for the first time. She has a serious camera with a 300mm lens. I was thinking to myself I hope she doesn’t catch me on camera bailing. Not the best mindset going into the water. I jumped in and paddled out to join the others. I paddled for the first wave and got taken down straight away. All I saw was this wave hollow out and then coral below me and I panicked. I had spent the last six weeks in Bali surfing bigger waves than this, but these waves were so much faster. And the reef beneath me was really playing mind tricks on me. The next wave I held on for a while, finally stood up and then lost my balance and got dragged into the rocks. I did that twice and then decided to get out before I smash up the one and only board I have with me.

That afternoon most of the group headed over to Spankers, a couple stayed with Hideaways and then I caught up with everyone again in the evening at the bar. I get a buzz off everyone’s buzz. Its wave talk time and people are thirsty. About an hour later Alice turns on the lap top and everyone gets to see a photo gallery from the day up on the projector. Rey want down on the reef and had to get a bit of doctoring but for the most part everyone is left unscathed. There were some goodie photos, but things are really just warming up. I of course was bleak about my session but Berti, a WavePark regular, recommended I try out Beng Bengs, a much easier ride. Hideaways break is really not for beginners. Bertie is also a seven times world champion snowboarder. He stopped competing in 2002, but he still looks like a professional athlete when he surfs. Berti is unassuming though. If it wasn’t for surf guide Shane telling me he is like the Kelly Slater of snowboarding I never would have known anything about his triumphs. He is just not that kind of guy to blow his own horn.

So that’s my plan. Tomorrow I have to catch up on my blogging, but soon enough I’m going to head for Playgrounds and have a bit of fun. I have weeks to work it out. No need to panic.

Pelan-Pelan. Hati-Hati.

Play hard. Sleep hard.

Indonesian words of the day:
Pelan-Pelan - slowly
Hati-Hati - careful
Ombak - wave
Cepat - fast
Karang - reef

21 September 2011

Not just for surfers
I write this blog from my new “office”. My desk has a hole in it and inside the hole is a tree chopped at the top with an umbrella makeshift palm frond covering. I usually listen to music when I write but I’m enjoying the purr of the waves lapping up against the shore in front of me. One of the boats just got back from surfing Bang Bang. I asked surf guide Ross how were the waves and he said pretty good about head high. I asked him in feet and that’s when I got the lowdown on wave size. “Well…” says Ross. “If you’re from Hawaii you would probably say 1 foot, a Kiwi would call it at 3 foot and a Brazilian maybe at 5 foot. But basically if you are on the wave it’s head high.” The guests all seem really stoked and as the swell keeps coming it’s just going to get bigger and better. I’m secretly wishing for smaller waves, but I’m not gagging for a surf yet.

Just before lunch I went for a long swim at the beach in front and I just cannot get over how beautiful this place is. I have spent time on hundreds of beaches all over the world but nothing compares to this. It’s a dream for beach babes seeking serenity and a stark contrast to busy Bali where non stop there are always people on the beach trying to sell you something. And for me as a writer, it’s a space that I can really chill out in and sink into the zone. I wrote 30 000 words of my book whilst in Bali. I probably have another 30 000 words to go, filling in the gaps and tidying it up. Bali was just too fast. It was difficult to write. But this place is pure Zen. Indonesian words of the day: Cinta - love Damai - peace Cantik - beautiful Pantai - beach

22 September 2011

The 90 minute stroll
I waited for the lowest low tide and then I went for it. It took me a very cruisy 90 minutes to walk around Hideaways Island. I forgot to take my sandals but it wasn’t a major. The first half there are a few hairy parts where you’re walking on washed up coral for some time ago nothing that cuts. And I saw a four foot lizard. He was a bit shy. I left at 9.30am and got back around 11am. It was overcast when I left and super sunny on the final stretch and so I topped off my walk with a lazy swim. The sun here is sneaky. Even if you think you are not burning, you definitely are. Skinny went out for such a long surf even his eyes are sunburnt. Sunscreen is your friend! Keep it close.

23 September 2011

It’s a Feast!
I have to stop eating. Seriously. Its just too much. Or, in Indo speak, terlalu! But I just cant seem to stop because I’m in the midst of a feast, non stop. I guess the novelty hasn’t worn off yet. Breakfast we’re treated to daily muffins as a snack to the main course which might be omelets, poached eggs, pancakes or French toast. So far my lunch favorites have been the lasagna and the Thai sweet potato soup. Last night we had fish, mash and veggies for dinner and tonight it was thin crust pizza with heaps of different toppings. Now you try so no to pizza! The trick of course is to burn it off.

I think first prize for calorie burning would have to go to Berti today. Everyone headed over to Playgrounds in the morning but he hung back. At 11am he headed out front to Hideaways and only came in when the sun set. That’s nearly a seven hour session! Impressive.

Indonesian words of the day:
Makanan - food
Makan - eat Makanan
pagi - breakfast
Makanan siang - lunch
Makanan malam - dinner
Jam barapa makan siang? - What time is lunch?
Makanan siang satu tuju sepu - Lunch is 7.30pm

24 September 2011

I am being stalked by coconuts
I must have been a coconut plucker in a previous life because these coconuts have it in for me. Once a day these past three days a coconut has fallen just a few feet from where I am standing or sitting. After doing a fair amount of fact finding on the Internet to see just how many people a year are in fact killed by coconuts I finally came up with absolutely nothing. Yes there are reports of 150 deaths a year. But that report is wrong.

There is really nothing substantial I have found yet. But if I go by first hand knowledge through island people I know i am happy to report that no one knows anyone personally of being killed by a coconut but there have been a handful of known injuries in the past 20 years. I’m more worried about the coconuts to be honest than a Tsunami. Or course everyone has different fears, but it’s a matter of putting everything into perspective. I grew up in Africa, so this place feels safe like a Swiss bank vault.

Christie was actually relaying an “African Precaution” conversation between him and a guest of his from the Congo. The first two days this guest was on the island he just wasn’t cracking a smile and looked far too serious. And then he started smiling again and it all came out. He told Chrisite he had been a bit freaked out that first day after the whole Tsunami talk. But then his friend had put it into perspective. He said it is just like when people come to the Congo and they give the Congo talk, because every, well, most countries have some sort of “talk”. Now the Congo talk is quite unique, and it goes like this: In the Congo in the middle of the night… If you hear a shot gun, thats ok, go back to sleep. But if you hear machine guns then best to get out of bed and check what’s up with the owner of the house. But if you hear heavy artillery boom whistle boom then its time to run. No need to consult owner.

So yeah, Im feeling rather at ease on the island. Actually I keep getting that pinching feeling like, yes it’s true…I am living on an island that would make a postcard pop out at you and shout Welcome to paradise!

Indonesian words of the day:
Paradise - firdaus
Coconut - kelapa
Village - kampung
People - orang

25 September 2011

San Diego Steve gets 1 on 1 surf time
San Diego Steve arrived at the bar around sunset absolutely glowing. He had a 1 on 1 surf session with surf guide Shane just in front at the Hideaways break and was feeling much more comfortable now surfing on reef. Everyone keeps telling me it takes time and I have time, 40 odd days to work it out, but the guests will have to go home next week. And so I was just stoked for Steve that he had a good session. I’m in the writers zone at the moment trying to edit and finish the book I wrote in Bali so I am extremely distracted but I will get out there really soon. I’m just waiting for the right tide and the right size.

I don’t mean to sound like a girl, but i am, and I’m cautious. If I am going to take risks it will be towards the end of the trip, not at the start. And I just don’t want to get spooked again. Pelan-Pelan.

Indonesian words of the day:
Writer - penulis
Pelajar -  to learn (student of anything)
Teacher - guru

Enter the Shaman
So this morning I woke up to strange voices. Of course, there were three shaman and their friends sitting outside my door on the verandah staff quarters. They got their own language on their island Siberut with many different dialects because there are many different tribes. And while Indonesia struggles to maintain 1 doctor for every 6000 plus citizens the Mentawai can boast 1 traditional healer for every 3 or 4 of it’s citizens, making it the highest ratio of doctor to patient of any society in the world. Mentawai is blessed with a rich forest that provide most nutritional and medicinal needs.

Last night the Siberut medicine men did some tribal dances for the guests mimicking animals from the island with stomping and howls. Christie was saying every now and then they get really into the zone and naturally cross over, taking on the spirit of the animal. On one occasion one of the elders took on the spirit of a snake and felt flat on his back. One of the drummers tried to help him but as soon as he touched him he too took on the spirit. But no need to worry, it’s what they do. Fascinating stuff really. There is a book on the book shelf about the Mentawai People that traces back to their roots and explains in detail the culture of these indigenous folk written by a Canadian that spent a food part of ten years on the island integrating with the locals. It’s on my book short list now.

Understanding local culture I find really enriches my travels. And the local staff here are real friendly and very patient with me helping me to learn to speak Indonesian. Sedikit, tiap hari.

Indonesian words of the day:
Sedekit - little bit
Every day - tiap hari
Medicine man - dukun
Village - kampung
Sabar - patience